About

BOOK TITLE: The Australia Times - Antiques magazine. Volume 1, issue 6
COMPANY NAME: THE AUSTRALIA TIMES
COMPANY URL: HTTP://WWW.THEAUSTRALIATIMES.COM
EMAIL: INFO@THEAUSTRALIATIMES.COM

Vol. 1 No. 6 October 2015
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
ANTIQUES
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
ANTIQUES
WHAT’S INSIDE?
8
Top Five
Reasons
to Buy an
Antique Sewing
Machine!
24
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Leaving them in Stitches
38
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Prices and Affordability
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EDITORS NOTE
Top Five Reasons to
Buy an Antique Sewing Machine!. . . . . . . . 8
A Brief History of the Sewing Machine. . .12
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Names and Badges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
The Sum of its Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Buying Your Sewing Machine: Leaving
them in Stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Needles, Shuttles and Bobbins . . . . . . . . .28
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
The Power to Sew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Where the Wild Things Are . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Prices and Affordability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Servicing Your Sewing Machine:
Preparing it for Use. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Using Your Sewing Machine:
Getting it Started! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
TAT Antiques - Featured Antique . . . . . . . 46
Special Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Conclusion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
__________________________________
COVER: Photograph Taken by the
TAT Antiques Editor
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
ANTIQUES
WHAT’S INSIDE?
I
admit to having a rather personal
connection to sewing machines.


   
dressmaker. From about 1950 to

       
        





have learned to appreciate their engineering and beauty.


it; I have my own antique sewing machine which I use


Doubtless it will also appear in this issue. I wonder why?

Shahan Cheong
EDITOR
TAT Antiques

Welcome to the October issue of TAT Antiques,
for 2015. In this issue, we’ll be looking at one of
the most collectible types of antiques out there,
actively sought by men and women alike, for
everything from quilting to bag-manufacture,
clothing-repairs to clothing-production!
I am of course, talking about the sewing machine, one
of the greatest marvels of 19th century invention.
In this issue, we’ll be looking at the history of the
sewing machine, the various manufacturers and
models, and the components which make up an
antique sewing machine. On top of that, I’ll also
cover what you’ll need to know about buying your
very own, antique, or vintage sewing machine
for your personal use – what to look for, what to
keep an eye out for, what to fix, clean, or avoid,
and most importantly – how to use your machine!
So if you’ve ever wanted an antique or vintage
sewing machine, this is the issue for you!
Shahan Cheong
EDITOR
The Australia Times - ANTIQUES
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
8
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Top Five Reasons
to Buy an Antique
Sewing Machine!

W


Surely modern ones a better? Modern ones
can do more things? Modern ones last longer and

        
would want to buy a mechanical wristwatch made


        

have a look.
Antique Sewing Machines
are Made Better.
         
       
        
      
what we have today. Their bodies are solid cast

       




      




    
       
      
     



       






Independent Media Inspiring Minds
9
ANTIQUES
Just how tough are old sewing machines?



      
This is because they knew that these machines


        

They were so well-built and so tough that they
      

        
     


up with sledgehammers and thrown repeatedly to
       

Antique Sewing Machines
are More Aesthetically Pleasing.


that appeared on the market in the 1840s and 50s
        
      
    
       



       


These days you can have a sewing machine in any

        



      
       
        

      

up their machines. They gave them handsome cases
       
      
      
     
      
      
        

with decorative borders. Faceplates were polished
      
and polished until they shone. This was all to make

late 1800s.
Sewing machine decals and patterns remained an
       
       
and with the locations where these machines were
made. Machines being sold to India had Indian
       

       
       
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
10
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
    
      
     
      

Name me one machine made today with that level

Antique Sewing Machines
are More Elegant
       

      
anything made today. A modern sewing machine is


       
more appealing when uncovered.
      
         
      


     
           





        
  
       
       
proclaimed to all who saw it that here was a person
        

Antique Sewing Machines
will Last Longer

      

      
last much longer than anything built today. Once




edge technology.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
11
ANTIQUES
Older machines may not be able to do as many
      


      
      
able to sew through anything which a modern
machine can also accomplish.


 

      
they would be able to sew through anything which
most people are ever likely to use their machines

There’s Nothing to Learn!




        
 


  

     
and whistles means that you can concentrate more
on quality than quirks.
An 1885 Singer
Model 12 with
Acanthus’ decals.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
A Brief
History of the
Sewing Machine

T
he impact that the sewing machine has
       
    
real shame.

  

each and every last stitch holding it together.
      
   







public.



     
impact that the sewing machine has had on
modern society.

sped up everything. From taking hours or days to
         
        
     
      


brought down the prices to the level that people
        

Independent Media Inspiring Minds
13
ANTIQUES


      


   
     
       


   
        
 
        
     
       





and practical sewing machines were developed.
    


      
to developing a machine that could be put to

    
     

      
Isaac Merritt Singer stole all their ideas and built
      
    



Singer realised that the sewing machine was

could make a good one could stand to become a
       
       
      

an organisation called the Sewing Machine

     
these men controlling all these patents and
        

And it also gave them a huge monopoly on the


       
and nobody had bothered to renew them. This
led to more companies springing up producing


out there today.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
14
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Names and
Badges

       
        

        
       
        
people looking to buy an antique or vintage sewing
machine.
Other good vintage brands include Frister &
      
        
      


          


machines had automatic-stop bobbin-winders and

I



    

       
   


      
          
vintage sewing machine?
        
         
      




Independent Media Inspiring Minds
15
ANTIQUES
      





th


      


that they ran as smooth as a sewing machine.

      


         

and learn about without hassle. Nothing could be
more annoying than buying an antique sewing


Re-Badged Machines,
For When All is not as it Seems
    

onto their pillars. A bit like the hood-ornament
      



a sewing machine with a badge on it which is not

Frister & Rossmann sewing machines were typical
of the kind made in Germany at the turn of the last
century, featuring a transverse shuttle mechanism
and porcelain handle on the crank.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
16
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®


     

      
      


     
      

    
       



        
       
       


     
decal on the machine-bed and the thoroughly
Australian-sounding surname. All machines with


machine company).
        


        
Australian-made sewing machines particularly

world.
An A.N.A. or “All Native Australian” sewing
machine. Despite the name, this was actually
made in the United States by the Davis
Sewing Machine Company.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
18
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
The Sum of
its Parts
BY 

       

      

   


The machine is attached to the base with
     

storage underneath. Some machines had

 
      


       
W
hen you buy a sewing machine second-
       

       


Unless it's exceptionally old, most
antique sewing machines will have a
regular, rectangular bed
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
19
ANTIQUES



   
damage. Depending on the age and make



  
     
sew. Most domestic sewing machines are
    



th






     

         



   
although some models have two) sticking

      

The Singer 'Featherweight' came with a 'free-arm'
arrangement where the bed could be slid off to
allow for greater access to the needle for a wider
variety of sewing tasks
Some machines have two spool pins,
instead of one, like this 1940s Singer. One
pin is for the sewing thread, the other pin is
to hold thread used to fill the bobbin
This 19th century Singer
12 with mother-of-pearl
inlay has a curving
'fiddlebase' bed
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
 
       
usually with a nickel-plated or chromed
rim. An electric machine will have a solid
    
will have a spoked handwheel. An electric
machine with a spoked handwheel is almost
     
       
previously it had been hand-powered.
     
     
nickel-plated) inside the balance wheel.

because turning this releases the clutch on

      
      
winding up bobbins). Not all machines have
clutch-wheels. Some machines have clutch-
pins or needles which engage and disengage

 The Driving Mechanism comes next. This will be

will be directly or indirectly connected to the
    
this is accomplished by a short drive-belt.
   

      
arm that sticks in through the spokes on
the balance wheel. In some antique sewing
    


          
     


     

on most Singer sewing machines were

       

         
         
     
        




        
     
      
      

The balance
wheel (with
spokes) and
clutch-wheel
(chrome-
plated) at
the end of
a sewing
machine
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

ANTIQUES

spring mentioned above.
         
     



 The Take-up Bar comes last. This bar has the
take-up lever or take-up arm attached to it.
        


the take-up lever is connected via a cam to
   
take-up lever) unnecessary.
        
underneath the three bars. These plates are

     

mechanism). Slide-plates slide back and
   

bobbin.
      

          
   
     
buy them on eBay.
       
    
   



     
     
    


      

 
      
       

 
      

that go into the machine-bed underneath the


The bobbin-
winder on a
Singer 15
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
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        
near the bobbin-winder. Turning the knob
      

  
     
      

     

 
      
     
      
      
and also its neatness. Not all machines have
    
      


by a spring.
The bobbin-
winder on
an older-
style, long
bobbin
machine
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Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Leaving them
in Stitches
The Transverse Shuttle
      
transverse-shuttle sewing machine creates a two-



stitch.
D



     
      

Compact
'Saxonia'-
style sewing
machine with
transverse-
shuttle stitch-
mechanism
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

ANTIQUES
The transverse shuttle mechanism has existed since





     
      
them is almost impossible. A popular model is the

       

    
companies held onto the transverse-
     
longer than other makers. They were
still producing these right up until
    
   
be like a computer-company still
     

     
   
are that it was modernised to take






The Vibrating Shuttle

       

shaped shuttle) to create a lockstitch. A popular

machine is characterised by the two rectangular



My 1936
Singer 128,
one of the
most common
vibrating-
shuttle sewing
machines ever
made
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Vibrating shuttle machines were extremely

      
       
      
        
      
     
shop or supermarket.
Round Bobbin Machines
Round Bobbin machines came out in the late 1800s





or vibrating shuttle sewing machine. A popular
model is the Singer 15.

in bobbin machine was invented. It used a round

machine up was much improved. All you did was






     
machine can be used today. They should all take
modern needles. They are easily recognised by
       

ready to sew).
A Wheeler
& Wilson
No. 8 round
bobbin sewing
machine
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Needles,
Shuttles
and Bobbins


         

great.
Needles

     
       
    
       
       


The trouble comes when you have really old
A
       
chapter – not all sewing machines are created
     
you MUST take this into account. There are loads

       
     

       

skirt around patents and come up with something



       
      
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

ANTIQUES

     
     
       
       
       
purposes only.
Shuttles and Bobbins
Remember how I said that nothing was standardised?
     

and their own shuttles which would only work in
their own machines.
        
    

      
machines could take American machine parts. The

         
       
only things worth changing were the small details

        
       

      
your machines.
Standard vibrating shuttle,
with bobbin inside
The shuttle
carrier
inside the
bobbin race
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
30
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine
The Power
to Sew

Hand Machines

     

       
      
turning the crank once turned the balance wheel


      
         







N


     
make is how the machine operates. Antique and
vintage sewing machines typically operate in three
ways.
Treadle-
powered
Singer
sewing
machine.
An easily-
replaced
leather
belt runs
around the
balance-
wheel and
the flywheel
on the
treadle to
operate the
machine
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
31
ANTIQUES
     

     

the handle and wheel would result in
    


     
   
      
     
    
     
with a sewing machine – novice or
  

     
anywhere to sew with it – in the



          
manual speed control means that you can go as

        
        
electric machines.
Treadle Power
     


in pretty decent condition. Treadle machines

however.
       
Traditional treadle machines were made with



         
      

      
around 30lbs.




My 1936 Singer 128 (left) and 1945 Singer 15 (right) are
both examples of hand-powered machines. No extra treadle-
weight to grumble over, no worn-out electrics to worry about
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®





treadle sewing machine will have more than enough
       

and all your machine accessories. Although they

        


Qualities like speed and extra storage make treadle
      

upholstery or quilting. Treadle machines are popular


as a decorative side-table.

      


      


      
       


you simply dropped the machine back into the
       
 

very high prices.
Electric Machines
    
       
     
      

The motor bolted onto the machine in the same way
      

      

    
     

same power-source as the motor.
    
previously hand-powered machines became
available. These machines did away with traditional
      
       
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
33
ANTIQUES




      
operation is as simple as unscrewing the motor and


Vintage electric machines come with their own
      
course is that they need electrical power to operate
        
where you can take it. The second thing you need
to consider is that the electric components on a lot

          


to a hand-crank machine.
An electric sewing
machine of the kind that
was common from the
1920s/30s, up to the
1960s and 70s. The same
basic design as Victorian-
era machines, but with
electrics thrown in
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
34
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Where the Wild
Things Are

       
        
        
       



decorative.

the assumption that you will want a machine which


come across is the make. This is not always as easy


        
         


N
ow that you know all about old sewing
     


      
      
       



        

    
shops.
    




Independent Media Inspiring Minds
35
ANTIQUES
Crank-Handle Styles
      





hand-driven machine.
      


  
       

       
      
     
believed to last longer and be more hygienic. They
were easier to clean than wooden handles.
The Bobbin Winder
       
     
little mechanism used to load an empty bobbin


American and British sewing machines all had


     
       
Britain almost always had a simple bobbin winder.





White, porcelain
enamel handles
were often found
on old German
sewing machines,
like this Frister &
Rossmann from
the early 1900s
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
36
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
     
    
     
        
        
       




Although American and British machines did have


      
their long bobbin machines. So a more complicated
long bobbin winder on an antique machine is most


Where to Find Antique Sewing Machines

     

       


required to get the machine working again.

         




      
         
prevalent makes.
       




The United States will have among the largest
     


in mind that the average antique sewing machine
       



        
the item throughout my luggage to bring it back.
So knowing how to assemble and disassemble your

Points of Interest on
Old Sewing Machines
       
        
machine which you should examine closely. In no

• The Bobbin Winder. Does it work? Does it
     
wheel smoothly? Is the rubber tire on the

buy replacements).
• The needle bar. Does the machine have a needle


     

supermarket.
 
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
37
ANTIQUES

and locks onto the base. Make sure that the
       
locks and catches are securely embedded



is sometimes enough to pick the lock. This
works especially well with antique Singers.
• The Tension Discs. 
tensioning system) on an old sewing
       




• The Clutch Wheel.
wheel is essential to switch the machine
   
mode. Make sure that it tightens and
loosens as expected. It may be necessary
to disassemble this and clean it to ensure
proper clutch and release.
• The Drive Belt. On old electric and treadle
    

They are easily replaced with anything

      
online about how to re-belt your old sewing

• Bobbins and Shuttles. 
     
sure that it has enough compatible bobbins




      

     
examples are also easily obtained. A sewing
machine without it bobbins and/or shuttles


  




• Attachments. Every antique sewing machine


     
when it was new. Attachments allowed
   
   


     


• Feed Dogs.       
any antique machine that you buy. Feed-
     
the needle which operate in a circular


    




• The Serial Number.
       

        
    
         

Independent Media Inspiring Minds
38
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Buying Your Sewing Machine:
Prices and
Affordability

H




       
       
 


have the skills to resurrect dead machines.
     
machine cost?


vintage sewing machine with enough attachments
     
        
     

The Singer 'Parlour Cabinet' model, closed up.
The machine would also fold inwards, leaving
you with a completely tucked-away sewing
machine disguised as a lovely side-table
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
39
ANTIQUES
weight and hassle involved in moving one around.




       



        
        






       
premium prices.
       

       

        







open up another outlet.

   
       
     

AllSaints Spitalfields, near the Portobello
Road Antiques Market in north London. A
photograph I took back in 2010
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
40
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Servicing Your Sewing Machine:
Preparing it
for Use

A





tinkering with it.
        

     


at the last minute.
      


       
      
          






Cleaning Your Machine

         


        
them going again.

 Flathead Screwdriver. Most sewing-machine
components are held on with simple slot-
     


purpose.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
41
ANTIQUES
 


       
stubborn bolts and to pick out grime and lint

 

      

 
        

things to their proper shine.

the TAT Antiques issue about antiques repairs and

Servicing a sewing machine is quite easy. Remove
        

      




Once the machine has been thoroughly


          

Remember how
    
 

   
  
A dry sewing
machine can be
so impossible to

   



    
extremely easy to lubricate. They come complete
       
around the machine. These are oiling-holes. Stick
        


   
distribute the oil around the interior. Do not be
   



        
cleaning did not dislodge.
    
       
mechanical parts. There should be no squeaking or



stitches.
Antique domestic sewing machines came with oiling
holes where lubricant could be poured or sprayed to
keep the internal mechanism moving
Some machine
models will come with
removable metal plates
which allow greater
access to the mechanism
for cleaning and
lubrication
Independent Media Inspiring Minds

THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Using Your Sewing Machine:
Getting it
Started!


  
and then load an empty bobbin into the winder.

         
       
bobbin-winder. Feed it through the thread-guides

times to anchor it properly. Then simply turn the
        
treadle mechanism to turn the balance wheel and

with thread.
        
load the bobbin into the race. Depending on your

Loading a Sewing Machine Shuttle
      

Y
      

       
        
       



Every lockstitch sewing machine that has ever

         



the sewing machine.
          


the machine by either pulling out the connecting
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
43
ANTIQUES
      
 

       
         
      


action creates stitches.







thread will catch in the hook and then you simply
trail it under the tension-spring in the shuttle. Once
        
  

    
has something to work with.
       

      
thread being pulled by the machine will simply
        
    

Loading a Round Bobbin
         


       







Feed the thread through the thread-slots in the
bobbin-case and through the necessary tension-
plates. Then load the bobbin and the case into the

         
slide-plate.


       
          
      
       
          



Threading Your Machine

bobbin case and loaded the bobbin case into the
    

      
     
engaged.
    



        
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
44
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®

      



needle.

   
        
       



machine to play with.

Adjusting your Thread Tension
        


       
your sewing machine parts with the thread which
  
      
      

be a relatively easy tweak.
     

          

       

         
       


the tension assembly. Loosening or tightening this
       
the tension discs. A well-tensioned machine is one
      
identical on both sides. This means that the upper
and lower threads are being released with the same
         

loosening the tension-nut on the tension discs.





The tension-discs, spring and screw-nut on a Singer
sewing machine. Adjusting thread-tension is vital
for good sewing. If tension is too tight or slack, the
machine won't sew properly - or at all
Seen here are the presser-foot, the needle and
needle-clamp, and the feed-dogs (the serrated
teeth underneath the presser-foot)
E
      



       

which it appears.


      
      

TAT ANTIQUES Featured Antique – Submission
Form



    


       

        
    


Images).
      
       
         
       


     
     
     
to provide readers with a better understanding and

in each issue.
TAT Antiques
- Featured
Antique
- Reader
Information!

TAT Antiques Featured Antique
Name of Owner: Shahan Cheong
Featured Antique: Sterling Silver Georgian
Vinaigrette
Date or Period of Manufacture: Georgian
England. 1823.
Place of Manufacture: England.
Name of Manufacturer: Thomas Spicer
N
ow here’s something you don’t see every day!
And it’s denitely my pleasure and privilege
to share this with my readers. Here it is.
Backstory:
I bought this little trinket from a man who
misidentied this as a vesta or silver match-safe,
and who, luckily for me, priced it accordingly. If
he’d known what it really was, I probably couldn’t
afford it! But I got lucky, and I can’t believe how
old it actually is. It’s denitely one of the more
interesting and unusual items that I’ve added to my
personal collection, which is why I’m so thrilled to
own it. It’s also one of the oldest!
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
46
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
TAT Antiques
- Featured
Antique
BY SHAHAN CHEONG
Vinaigrettes are typically very small. Here it is next
to a 50c coin, to show scale. The flat panel on the
lid was for engraving initials, a date or monogram





this.
The item I have here is a little vinaigrette – a true

st


Item Profile: Vinaigrettes




the 18
th
and 19
th




and pungent agents designed to bring about

an extremely pungent substance which can be


The 18
th
and 19
th
centuries were not the sweetest-









soaked sponge held behind a pierced screen.








you. It was basically your personal

in your pocket.



become very common. They were




Independent Media Inspiring Minds
47
ANTIQUES
All vinaigrettes came with a sponge with which to contain the
mix of perfume or oil, and vinegar, which would help to ward off
unpleasant smells which threatened to ruin your day







Vinaigrettes held miniature sponges which were



the vinaigrette and the little pierced screen was



prevent the acid damaging the silver which most

This particular vinaigrette is hallmarked as being








another time and another place.
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
48
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
The hallmarks inside reveal the town of assay, date
of assay, the maker's name, and the fact that the
silver tax (abolished in April of 1890) has been
paid on this item
The gilt pierced grille allowed the scent contained
in the sponge to waft outwards, but prevented the
sponge from falling out accidentally
…TO WAYNE AND JUDI
MCKAIL
, of “Sew What –
Maryborough”, for their assistance
with this issue of TAT Antiques,
and for letting me photograph so
many of their gorgeous antique
and vintage sewing machines.
Thank you so much for your
invaluable assistance, and patience
in answering my questions and
helping me to ll in the gaps in
my research for this issue. It was
much appreciated and helped to
correct one or two small errors
which I would not have found out
otherwise! Anyone reading this
who lives in Victoria can visit Sew
What – Maryborough, located at
51 Laidman Street, Maryborough,
and admire their fantastic collection
of antique and vintage sewing
machines, dating all the way back
to the 1860s and 70s, up to postwar
models of the 50s, 60s and 70s,
and a few select modern ones.
Special
Acknowledgements
BY SHAHAN CHEONG
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
50
THE
AUSTRALIA
TIMES
®
Judi McKail
hard at
work on her
industrial-
grade Singer
treadle
machine!
Special
Acknowledgements

T


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


Shahan Cheong
EDITOR TAT – Antiques.
Conclusion
Independent Media Inspiring Minds
51
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Liam, 6, diagnosed with large cell lymphoma,
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